Occasionally we will have a customer come to us with a right pedal jammed into the left crank arm, or vice versa. In most cases, the pedal has a steel spindle and the crank is aluminum. Aluminum, being much softer than steel will accept the forced thread, but not for long. Once a load is put on the pedal the threads begin to strip out and the crank is toast! Or is it?
Of course, on lower end bikes, a left side crank arm can be purchased for a fairly reasonable price. However, right side cranks or higher end cranks can be much more expensive. In most cases a pedal thread can be repaired.
For science, I went against all of my mechanical training and experience and forced this right (Red for Right) pedal into the left crank arm. It was quite liberating.Now that our left crank arm is good and wrecked, its time to get fixin'.
Up close of the damaged threads. if you look straight down the center, you can see where the newly forced right-hand threads cross the preexisting left-hand threads.
Left-hand in silver, Right-hand in gold. they can also be identified by the direction the threads slope. Left-hand threads slope up to the left and right-hand threads slope up to the right. Same as pedal threads.
Double check the tap to make sure you're using the correct one. The last thing you want to do it tap a right-hand thread in the left crank. This particular thread repair kit uses a special tap with a tapered reamer. It enlarges the hole and then taps the new threads all with one bit. Also, Make sure to use plenty of cutting oil to keep the tap cool and lubricated.
Apply high strength thread lock compound to the external threads of the sleeve insert. This will keep it from being removed from the crank when the pedal is taken on and off.
After the thread lock compound cures overnight, the pedal can be removed and reinstalled as if the new threads were one with the crank.Time for reassembly.
Grease those bolts! This will allow proper torque to be achieved and protect the threads from corrosion. Park Tool's PolyLube 1000 works great as an assembly grease.
Here is the finished product. It's hard to tell that there was every anything wrong with this crank in the first place.











Pete!
ReplyDeleteThanks for this. I actually talked to you on the phone about a week or so ago and performed this (successfully!) on a customer's bike (of coarse, on a dummy crank arm first). Albeit, this post was after the fact, but still very insightful (and reassuring).
And I'll be sending some post requests your way soon. This is slowly becoming my favorite daily read.
Thanks for everything and keep up the good work!
Hey Vincent. Glad that your repair went well. Your call obviously gave us the idea for this post and for taking requests so thank you for the ideas. I'm curious to see how the "request a post" thing goes.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the post.
ReplyDeleteIt seems though, that there are bits of the process missing. the Gold/Silver inserts appeared as from nowhere and I'd be keen to find out more.
JB
This is a great how-to. I'd appreciate knowing where I might find the crank inserts.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=867204723182&d=single&c=Shop-Aids&sc=Thread-Repair&tc=Complete-Kits&item_id=EL-2299
ReplyDeletethanks a bunch, as a mobile fitness repair tech, this will result in less downtime waiting for replacement parts!
ReplyDelete